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Collected excerpts of pool care and troubleshooting tips

Troubleshooting bubbles and Leaks
If you still have bubbles check all suction valve seals, a quick way to find a leak on the suction side is to dribble water from a can or hose on to the valves and pump to motor seal. When you get to a leak bubbles will stop as water instead of air is drawn into the system.
If the o-ring under the cover is not lubed with silicone lube air can get in.
Heat up the black pipe where it attaches to the fitting in front of the pump on the skimmer side and crank down on the clamp, this makes the black pipe a little soft so when you tighten down on the clamp it molds to the fitting and stops air leaks.
The bucket test: Place a bucket filled with pool water on a pool step (weight it with a rock or brick). Mark the water level on both the inside and the outside of the bucket. Make sure the water levels are the same inside the bucket as the pool water level outside the bucket. Check the mark 24 hours later. If there's a greater drop in the line on the outside of the bucket, a leak in the pool is indicated. This test needs to be conducted with the pump on, then again with the pump off.
If you see air bubbles in the return lines water when the pool's pump is running, there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system. Is the pump basket lid on tight? Is the lid o-ring lubed and in good condition?
The pump lid o-ring can get dried out, flattened or cracked over time. In this event it should be replaced. These o-rings should be lubricated with a thin coat of silicone lube. We prefer to use Rainbow Silicone lube because it is a medium bodied lubricant that does not get sticky over time.
On bronze pumps, the o-rings will get hard and flat on one side and eventually refuse to provide a good seal.
There are drain plugs located on the pump pot and the main body of the pump. If these are loose or not sealed well, they can leak. On newer pumps, these have a small o-ring that will deteriorate over time.

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